Blitz in practice – avoid mistakes, develop a routine
Or: How to stop fighting against the light – and start working with it.
You have the flash, you have the camera – and now?
Flash can be frustrating at first. Sometimes the picture is too bright, sometimes too dark, sometimes it just looks “somehow wrong”.
Believe me: it’s the same for everyone. But with a bit of routine, an understanding of technology and a few clear processes, it quickly becomes much easier – and controllable.
Typical beginner mistakes when flashing
1. too hard light
→ Directly on the face, small flash, no light shapers – often looks like a personal photo.
Solution: Make the light “bigger” (softbox, umbrella, bouncer) and place it slightly to the side.
2. overexposure
→ Flash set too strong or not adjusted to the camera settings.
Solution: Reduce flash output manually or compensate TTL -1 to -2.
3. wrong direction
→ Frontal flash from above (clip-on flash in 0° position): flat, shiny, unfavorable.
Solution: Deflect the flash (upwards, to the side) or use it unleashed.
Quick tips for on the go
- Never point the flash head directly at the face (unless you want to be brutal like Gilden)
- Always pack a few filter foils (CTO, diffuser)
- A small reflector or a white card for brightening is often enough
- Battery check! Lightning consumes energy – have spare batteries with you
- Take test pictures before things get serious
What exactly do I set on the camera and the flash?
It depends on the application, but here is a practical approach:
Method for full control (manual):
- Set the camera correctly first – without flash!→ Aim: Expose the surroundings the way you want them (bright, dark, neutral)
- Add flash – manually!→ Start flash output at a low value (e.g. 1/32)→ Take a test image, then slowly work up until the balance is right
- With multiple flashes:→ Set camera first→ Then add main light→ Then add fill light / effect light / background flash one after the other→ Check results after each step
This takes a little time, but gives you maximum control and helps you to understand what causes which effect.
TTL – When things have to go fast
TTL (“Through The Lens”) automatically measures the brightness through the lens.
Advantage: Goes quickly, adapts to changing situations
Disadvantage: Not always reliable, e.g. with strong contrasts or glossy surfaces
Practical combination for on the go:
- Camera manual (e.g. 1/200 s, f/4, ISO 200)
- Flash to TTL → fast, semi-automatic, often good resultsOr:
- Camera on aperture priority (A/Av)
- Flash manual (e.g. 1/8) → Focus is on light control, camera adjusts exposure
What must the camera be able to do?
- Manual mode (M)
- Be able to set the sync time (usually 1/160 – 1/250 s)
- Possibly support for HSS, TTL, flash exposure compensation
What must the flash be able to do?
- Manual mode & TTL
- HSS (High-Speed Sync) if you want to take photos with an open aperture in the sun
- Radio control or connection for receiver
How much power do I need – is more always better?
Not necessarily.
- A flash with a guide number of 40-60 is often sufficient for small indoor portraits
- You need more power outdoors against the sun – or get closer with the flash
- More power also means bigger, heavier, more expensive – and longer charging times
Tip: Better a well-placed medium-power flash than a monster flash that doesn’t hit the target from 5 meters.
Conclusion: routine beats chance
Taking photos with a flash is like riding a bike: Shaky at first, but quite normal with a little practice.
If you learn the order in which you set things, random hits will soon be a thing of the past.
You work in a targeted, repeatable way – and in the end you create your picture the way you want it.
